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The DeviantArt MMD community is notorious for its drama and mini-conflicts. It has also been the one in which I've encountered some of the rudest people on the Internet. However, I have also been rather fortunate in being able to become acquainted with some of the nicest, talented and knowledgeable people I've ever encountered anywhere. Many of these have graced my gallery with their visits, comments, encouragement and attentions. And a few, perhaps some of the most talented, have graciously given me access to hard to get models, exclusive previews of their MMD work and even insights into their methods of doing things.
Occasionally, I am gifted with real gems and this was the case when garmus1 dropped a note in my inbox the other night. Apart from the depth of knowledge that he gives into his methods, he's also given me permission to share that knowledge with the rest of the community.
Now, I know that some of you will have, after reading only a single paragraph, a glazed look over your eyes - in which case, this is a good point for you to go elsewhere as there is a lot of text and some of it almost reads like a technical manual. But for those of you who really want to learn more about MMD and at least one approach to achieving stunning, profession quality video making results that was written by someone who really knows what they are talking about, please read on.
In the final analysis, MMD is not about editing models or making pictures - it is about making videos and there is really very little information into this aspect of MMD in the MMD Community outside of Japan. And definitely, few that are so detailed and written with this degree of technical competence. Many people may not be familiar with garmus1 's work simply because he doesn't really market his work much. But some of you may have seen his work in the past when I hosted them on my DA front page or when he kindly created a demo for one of my more popular MMD stages. Like most MMDers, he is a hobbyist and just enjoys what he does. BUT, in my books, he is simply one of the most skilled MMD video makers in the world - especially from a technical aspect. His video work is 'world class' and if you haven't checked out his YouTube Channel yet, I highly recommend that you do. You will not be disappointed.
As for the 'tutorial', rather than rehashing what he wrote me, I am simply going to replicate the entire note he sent me for two reasons:
(1) It's already well written and in simply rehashing it I would be doing nothing to add to it. Besides, he's the expert on these things, not me. (2) The computer system he uses for MMD is light years ahead of mine. It has some serious computing power. A lot of the effects he uses simply does not work on my 2006 vintage SONY VAIO, so I cannot replicate some of his techniques for the purposes of making screenshots.
So here is his information reproduced virtually verbatim. I have reformatted it (and corrected some typos and grammar) so that it's easier to read. There is also a small selection of his video work embedded at the end of this journal to showcase some of his work. These are not necessarily his best works; I simply chose several that used my stages (because I'm totally unbiased). So be sure to check out his YouTube Channel or better still, subscribe to it. He also has a presence on NicoNico, where perhaps his work is better known.
Note: Anywhere he's written "If you need more help with ..." - that's directed at "me" not "you". So please don't hassle him as he's got a life. Just use GOOGLE to fill in any knowledge gaps that you may have.
GARMUS' MMD Video Making Techniques:
Someone just asked me on how I make my videos and model renders to create that 3D effect. I'll copy and paste that msg here for you also for your info and if you want to make a tutorial that's up to you!
This might be a looong msg though!
O.K. First thing is you're probably a lot closer than you think you are! I had to find out on my own how to do this level of detail as all the other MMD video makers were A*** and wouldn't help or ignored me! I hated that they wanted to keep what they knew to themselves!
This will allow you to now change your settings in MMD to render directly from MMD at 1080 and 60 FPS! It's what the Japanese MMDers use and it took me a while to find out what it is!
Now that you have installed it go and adjust your screen size to whatever your computer can handle and your monitor can render.
Next load up a model. It can be any model that you want to use. Now load a shader; I'll use g-shader_neutral (greenershader). This is where most people lose out on the models. They just load the shader and leave the lighting adjustment alone. You can really bring out your model's features by adjusting the light settings. Each shader has a different intensity that it's good at but the positioning of the light makes a big difference!
The settings I use for light intensity for greenershader are R: 60 G: 60 B: 60 and for light position is X= +0.3 Y= -0.1 Z= +0.5
This should really bring out the effect now, but wait we're not done yet! Now you need to use o_SelfOverlay. You can use normal, blur or soft. I prefer using soft. If you don't have it grab it from here: okoneya.jp/mmd_files/
While you are getting that grab also o_Tonemap and o_Surplusfilter. Play around with these and use as needed! o_Surplus filter has o_Bleach-bypass in it. If you use it set it no higher than 0.5 in si and tr in the accessory panel. You can go higher if you are trying to do different camera effects. I set mine at 0.4 or 0.5 depending on what I want to accomplish.
o_Bleach-bypass will tone down the bright colors, and you will know this when you upload to Youtube. Colors like the reds becomes brighter. This will compensate for it but you will have to play around with it to see what works for you! Remember for all these filters and any others I might mention you can adjust the intensity of them in the accessory panel using the tr and si values! I usually just leave the o_SelfOverlay alone though.
Now load up excellentshadow and set the si to 10 in the accessory panel! The reason why you set it to 10 is that annoying shadow in the hairline that won't go away, this will get rid of it! If you don't have excellent shadow go here: mikudan.blog120.fc2.com/blog-e…
Now you can load up SvSSAO, XDOF, but I recommend TrueCameraLX. It has some slight autoluminous, motionblur, diffusion, SvSSAO all combined in it! I usually also add SvSSAO full version. SvSSAO is another thing most people don't adjust! You should never need to go higher than 0.4 in si and tr in the accessory panel for it. You ever notice that black outline around your model in your video or others? That's because they didn't adjust this!
Now after you have loaded all your effects and background you have an option to use diffusion. You might not need it depending on how you want your video to look! If you want more of a 3D look leave it off. If you want more of a movie look load it up and adjust the tr and si levels as needed! It should be looking pretty good now but it still not quite there yet.
Load the wave and motion files you need and of course set the ending frame for you video!
Now we want to render the video! Goto 'Render to AVI' and when you get the adjustment panel follow these steps:
1). Set your frame rate to 60 2). Goto the video compressor drop down menu and click it. You should now have additional option to choose from! I usually use the UtVideo YUV422 BT.709 DMO option. 3). Now once you have chosen that, the settings button under the drop down menu should be available. Click that! You now need to click on two boxes. They are (Same as # of logical processors) and (Optimize for compression ratio (Predict Median)) and then click on the OK button. 4). Now you can finally click on the OK button to render.
If you did everything right up to this point your video will be very sharp and even clearer than the original in MMD! The file WILL BE LARGE! Not as big as an AVI but close! We are talking GIGs, so make sure you have enough space where you put it! Next you need to compress it to a more manageable size. I use the Prism video converter but use whatever is available to you.
But for whichever one you use, you want to make sure in the converter that you set the render to 1080 and 60 fps along with quality over speed in render. If you need more help with the converter or the use of Prism just let me know and I'll give you another example!
Hopefully I didn't confuse you too much!
I know it's a lot of info but if you need anything else just let me know! Now you see why I always complain about my video quality on Youtube! Now that you know how my videos are supposed to look, look at my old videos and see how much quality they lost! Some videos do make it through ALMOST intact (still suffers some quality loss) but not much and you can tell which ones they are. I would still like to know how some of these MMD uploaders get their videos through so clear (I've got an idea but I'm not willing to pay for it and I don't have over a 10,000 subscriber base ). Well you should be putting out high definition videos from here on out!
Well there it is and hopefully it was clear enough for you! Try it out and let me know what you think!
If you have methods that you use that you want to share with other video makers in the community, do feel free to add these in the comments below. The ones that are, in my opinion, of special merit will be tagged as "featured" comments so that they will be highlighted for others who visit this journal.
Anyway. thanks for reading this. Hopefully, you've found some useful information here. I most certainly have. And many, many thanks to garmus1 for allowing me to share his knowledge with the community.